While all of my brahs back home were getting dressed in their [totally family appropriate] halloween costumes I was squeezing into a full body wetsuit. And when my broskis were heading out to radical college frat parties, throwing back brews, I was learning to catch my first wave. As appealing as it is to party with those frat dodes and nardudes, I am totally happy with my majorly mando halloween happenings.
Perhaps it is my swimming or yoga experience that helped me get a’hang of surfing. I don’t know if I ever totally iced a wave but I managed to feel like a true dundee. Everything was so quantum I barely even noticed how frigid it was. My over-enthusiam did cause me to hype-out every once in a while. I don’t know if many of the waves were juicy, in fact I think our time at Hoddevik was more of a jones sesh. But as a beginner I still had a mad time surfing these mushburgers. When we weren’t out riding the curls we were back cruisin’ in the beach-house. The house had a totally steller atmosphere– full of typical brodies from all different countries.
On our second day we were faced with a major bummer. The waves were hella heavy and too gnarly for us squids to surf. Despite being unable to try charging these righteous waves, I still had a cherry time.
Peace out for now three-baggers, and remember… hang loose.
P.S. If you feel so inclined… http://rippinh2o.com/dropzone/surflingo.shtml